The History of Great Fashion Designers as told by Cinema and Streaming

Fashion and cinema have been intertwined for some time now; one might even argue that one cannot exist without the other. After all, fashion is behaviour, serving to narrate a story, an era, much like cinema.

Recently, the seventh art and streaming platforms have taken an interest in recounting the tales of fashion's great names. This isn't by chance; there's been a cinematic evolution unfolding in recent times.

CINE-BIOGRAPHY: A MAJOR TREND.

Indeed, we're witnessing an upsurge in fashion biographies—or rather, the stories of the prominent figures behind the brands. Series, films, and documentaries narrating the lives of iconic figures with strong personalities and exceptional destinies, who were ahead of their time, guarantee success.

A few years back, cinema depicted the story of the renowned creator Yves Saint Laurent in two controversial and sometimes contentious versions: "Yves Saint Laurent" directed by Jalil Lespert, and "Saint Laurent" by director Bertrand Bonello.

Portraying the fragility of talents considered exceptional and showcasing a darker, vulnerable side isn't a simple task. After all, we're discussing personalities beloved and idolized worldwide for their extraordinary talent. Yet, simultaneously, it humanizes these figures, showing that everyone faced their challenges, which becomes aspirational.

The turning point in this genre came in 2021 with Ridley Scott's film "HOUSE OF GUCCI," starring Lady Gaga. The Gucci family saga grossed $153 million at the box office and received Oscar nominations. Despite its tremendous success, Gucci itself wasn't entirely pleased and pledged to release its version of the story.

THE INDUSTRY HAS AWAKENED!

With the film's success and the growth of streaming platforms, new series continue to emerge. Recently, Apple TV+ launched the series "The New Look," narrating Christian Dior's story from the creation of his brand, through the challenging periods of war, to the birth of the "Bar" suit, one of Dior's most iconic creations. Woven into this narrative are the stories of other fashion greats of that era, such as Gabrielle Chanel, Pierre Cardin, Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, among others.

When speaking of great personalities, one cannot overlook Gabrielle Chanel, whose story has been recounted numerous times in films like "Coco Chanel," "Coco Before Chanel," and "Chanel and Igor Stravinsky," among others. Gabrielle never went unnoticed!

Recently, another story to be told was that of Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, in the series of the same name on Star+, a six-episode saga depicting his arrival in Paris and the presentation of his first Haute Couture collection, and the challenges he faced in gaining acceptance from the French clientele—a series filled with emotion and stunning cinematography!

Karl Lagerfeld, another luminary of Maison Chanel after Gabrielle Chanel, will have his series released in June on Disney Plus. The series is an adaptation of the biography "Kaiser Karl" by Raphaëlle Bacqué and promises to reveal the truth behind the supposed rivalry between Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. We're already eager!

In addition to films and series, several documentaries about the great creators have emerged, such as the recent "Who is Sabato de Sarno?" depicting the arrival of the new creative director of Gucci, Sabato de Sarno, and his creative process in crafting the collection "Ancora."

Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain, had his personal story portrayed in "Wonder Boy," a touching documentary showcasing his journey from the glimmer of success to the darkness of his sad family history.

Last but certainly not least, the controversial and talented designer John Galliano had his documentary "High & Low - John Galliano," portraying the rise and fall of one of fashion's most influential figures—it's a must-watch, I guarantee!

Among grand Haute Couture ateliers, love and family life, tragedies, rivalries, iconic creations, and incredible destinies, all these ingredients promise to captivate us!

Photography credits:

Copyright 2021 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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Juliana Moreira

Columnist
IG:@julymoreira_

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