Paolo Roversi’s Photographs Celebrated at Palais Galliera

50 years of photography revealed in the exhibition dedicated to photographer Paolo Roversi at the Palais Galliera fashion museum in Paris. One of the great names in fashion photography, Roversi has collaborated with major fashion magazines and renowned designers, as well as capturing major global celebrities. Of Italian origin, Roversi settled in Paris in 1973.

Throughout his career, Roversi has drawn inspiration from fashion to create a unique body of work. From his choice of studio to large format cameras and Polaroids, all of these elements have helped define his aesthetic and approach to work. Soft tones, sepia, black and white, daylight, the density, and depth of colours have been central to his work.

Additionally, Roversi’s flashlight, a constant companion throughout much of his career, played a significant role in his creative process. According to Roversi, his first magic lantern was his room in Ravenna, Italy, where lights entered through the blinds forming mysterious figures on the ceiling and walls that caught his attention.

It was during a collaboration in 1997 with Comme des Garçons that Roversi first used a flashlight, resulting in one of his most well-known works. Major collaborations include his work with Dior, Yohji Yamamoto, Romeo Gigli, Rei Kawakubo, as well as the famous Pirelli calendar.

Another pivotal moment in Roversi’s career was in 1985 when he shot Yohji Yamamoto’s campaign, photographed without artifice, just a white background and some coloured lights, and of course, a lot of talent! These collaborations have cemented Roversi’s reputation as a leading figure in fashion photography.

His love for Polaroids has also played a significant role in his work, allowing him to create a world of darkness and light, playing with silhouettes, garments, and facial expressions. Roversi believes that beauty lies in imperfection, and his photographs often blur the line between photography and hand-painted paintings.

He has managed to remain at the forefront of the fashion industry without being influenced by ephemeral trends, always seeking a unique, pure, and simple beauty in his work. Each photograph, for Roversi, is a portrait, and he values working in a calm and intimate environment, inviting his subjects to participate in the creative process.

The exhibition at the Palais Galliera brings together 140 works, including covers, prints, Polaroids, and unpublished images, marking a premiere for the museum as it is the first time an exhibition is solely composed of photographs.

The exhibition runs until 14/07/2024 and offers various workshops for children and teenagers, making it an immersive experience for visitors interested in the intersection of fashion and photography.

Juliana Moreira

Columnist
IG:@julymoreira_

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